Barcis Kimono: Free Pattern
The Barcis Kimono - inspired by childhood romps at the gorgeous Lago di Barcis, Italy - is designed with that same childlike simplicity in mind. Each panel is constructed using a simple moss stitch (sc, ch 1). The beauty of this stitch lies in its subtlety. With a gentle texture that is never boring, a truly unique colorway can make a huge statement using this stitch pattern. Of course, I need my touch of whimsy - so I added a detailed lace edging, inspired by this wrap pattern by Kristin Ohmdahl. That little bit of lace at the bottom brings the drama to what is otherwise a very simple pattern. I finished off the kimono using front and back post stitches to create a ribbed edging along the front and neck of the crochet kimono. The final touch was to add one row of reverse single crochet to the sleeves and edging to create a finished look.
If you like it, pin it!
I used two gorgeous colorways by ND Yarn Company, Soft Petals for Color A and Poseidon as Color B. This yarn danced happily on my swift as I would it, reminding me of childhood romps beneath the blooming canopy at Lago di Barcis. The Poseidon rippled through my fingers like gentle waves on the lakeside beach. The yarn is soft, supple, and has fantastic squish (if ya know what I mean!). It works up like a dream, creating a stretchy, easy to wear garment that just drapes around my ahem motherly ahem curves. I’m not a small lady, so having a forgiving garment is a must! I highly recommend using their yarn, or one of their color kits, to make your own Barcis Kimono.
If you need a good substitute, Lion Brand offers Touch of Merino, which works out really well for this crochet kimono pattern.
One of my testers also used Lion Brand’s Comfy Cotton for a light, summer version, which also turned out beautifully!
Another quick note on yarns, a couple of my testers used Lion Brand’s mandala and found it a little too light for the pattern. I suggest sticking to a thicker Dk/3 weight.
Am I too wordy? Purchase the edited, printer friendly (less words and pictures!) in my Ravelry shop!
Check Your Gauge!
The first and most important step in making your kimono is checking the gauge. If you haven’t done this before, the purpose of a gauge swatch is to make sure that you crochet with the same tension I do! If you crochet much tighter than I did, your crochet kimono will come out muuuuch smaller; and we will both be sad. If you crochet much looser, the kimono will come out much larger; which is sometimes a good thing! I love a loose, flowy garment.
To make your gauge swatch, use the H/5mm hook of your choice (I’m a Boye hook girl, and their comfort grip hooks are THE. BEST.). Your goal with the gauge swatch is to fit the same number of stitches and rows into the 4” square as I did. In my photo, you see I also tested out the lace edging on my swatch, but that is not needed for you.
To meet gauge, you want to start by chaining MORE than you need; so start with roughly 24 chains (you want an even number for this stitch pattern). Single crochet in the 4th chain from your hook, chain one, skip one, single crochet in the next chain. Work this stitch pattern across the length of your chain. Repeat it roughly 20-24 times. Measure out four inches square and count how many rows tall and stitches wide it is. You should have 16 rows and 16 stitches (8 sc, 8 ch) in your four inch square. If you do, or are pretty close, start on the pattern!
If you plan to block your kimono (which I HIGHLY recommend), you can stretch your swatch to meet gauge - since you will stretch the finished product in the end.
You will find the finished measurements for each panel listed at the end of the pattern for each panel. Feel free to check your work as you go.
The Pattern: Barcis Kimono
ND Yarn Company DK/3 weight 100% Superwash Merino
Color A: Soft Petals
S: 1064 yds, M: 1124 yds, L: 1264 yds; XL: 1347 yds, 2XL: 1420 yds, 3XL: 1470 yds
Color B: Poseidon
S: 462 yds; M: 462 yds, L: 462 yds, Xl: 462 yds, 2XL: 693 yds, 3XL: 693 yds
Hook size H/5 mm (Again, these Boye ones are my favorite!)
Progress Saver - Learn to make your own unique ones here!
Stitches and Terms:
Sl St—slip stitch
Dc— double crochet
Picot—ch 3, sc in 3rd ch from hook
Written size is small, other sizes are in parentheses in ascending order (m, l, xl, 2xl, 3xl)
Stitches not worked in are not mentioned in the bottom edging. If the stitch is not mentioned, just skip it and work in the mentioned stitches.
The bottom edging is inspired by this shawl pattern by Kristin Omdahl. She includes a written chart you may find helpful.
The moss stitch used is super stretchy—use that to your advantage! Stretching and blocking the panels will get you several inches of additional length!
Gauge: 16 rows of 16 (8 sc, 8 ch 1, + 1 ch 3 sp) moss stitch = 4” square
Back: (Color A)
Ch 104 (114, 118, 128, 128, 136)
Row 1: Sc in 4h ch from hook, *ch1, sk 1, sc* repeat across (50, 55, 57, 62, 62, 68 sc)
Row 2: Ch 3, turn, sc in first ch 1 space *ch 1, sk 1, sc in ch 1 sp* repeat across
Repeat row 2 for 112 (112, 114, 116, 116, 116) rows
Fasten off, weave in ends.
S: 25”X 28”; M: 26.5” X 28”; L: 28” X 28.5; XL 29.5” X 29”; 2XL: 31”X29; 3XL: 32.5”X29”
Front Panel—make 2: (Color A)
Ch 44 (44, 52, 52, 58, 58)
Row 1: Sc in 4th ch from hook *ch 1, sk 1, sc in next ch 1 sp* repeat across (20, 20, 24, 24, 27, 27 sc)
Row 2: ch 3, turn, sc in first ch 1 space, *ch 1, sk 1, sc in ch 1 sp* repeat across
Repeat row 2 for 112 (112, 114, 116, 116, 116) rows Fasten off, weave in ends.
S: 10”X28”; M:10”X28”; L: 12”X28.5”; XL: 12”X29”; 2XL: 13.5”X29”; 3XL: 13.5” X 29”
Joining the Shoulders: (Color A)
With right sides facing each other (but let’s be honest, both sides are the same), join the shoulders starting on the outside and working toward the neck. My favorite method is to simply slip stitch through both pieces. This creates a seam much like a serger would on a knit garment. This type of seam has a small ridge on the inside, but it also has lots of give and movement while being very secure. After seaming the shoulders, fasten off and weave in ends.
Joining the Sides: (Color A)
Step 1: From the shoulder, measure down 5” (8”, 9”, 10”, 10”, 12”) and mark the row at the bottom of the measurement. Count down from the shoulder the number of rows you marked off—in the large, I marked 30 rows. I counted down thirty rows on the back panel and placed the marker through the thirtieth row of both sides. Pull up a loop in the thirty-first row (or whichever row comes after the one you marked) and slip stitch through both panels down the side. Fasten off, weave in ends.
Step 2: On the other side, simply count down the number of rows you measured in step 1, making sure you count the same number of rows on the back panel as the front. Place the stitch marker through the same row on both panels. Pull up a loop in the next row, slip stitch through both panels until you reach the bottom. Fasten off, weave in ends.
Sleeves: (Color A)
Round 1: Insert hook in armpit area where the side seam ends and pull up a loop. Sc in ea st around. Join with sl st to first sc. Since I left open thirty stitches on the front and back panels, I ended this round with 60 sc. Your final count will vary depending on how big you left the arm opening.
Round 2: ch 1, reverse sc around. Join with sl st to first st. Fasten off, weave in ends.
Repeat rounds 1-2 on the other side.
Front Edging: (Color B)
Row 1: Pull up a loop in the bottom corner of the front right panel. Sc 244 (256, 248, 260, 248, 256) working up the center of the kimono, around the back neckline, and down the other side. Do not work along the bottom hem of the kimono.
You may need to add a stitch here or there to get the right number of sc. The best place to add or subtract a sc is at the shoulder seams.
Row 2: Ch 2 (Does not count as first fphdc), *fphdc in next 2 st, bphdc in next 2 st* repeat around. (122, 128, 124, 130, 124, 128 fphdc)
Row 3: Ch 2, *fphdc 2, bphdc 2* repeat around, hdc in ch 2 sp of row 2 (this provides an even place to put the bottom edging)
Row 4: Repeat Row 3
Row 5: Ch 1, reverse sc in ea st, including ch 2 sp at the beginning of Row 3. Do not fasten off, you will carry this yarn to the bottom edging.
Bottom Edging: (In Color B)
Row 1: Turn garment so you are working on the bottom hem. Sl st in the side of the hdc of Row 4 of the Front Edging. Ch 1, sc in same spot. Sc in the side of each hdc or ch 2 sp of front edging. Sc in ea of the foundation ch of the front panels and back panels. (192, 204, 216, 216, 228, 252 sc)
*You will need to squeeze a few extra stitches in, I suggest on at each seam and in the hdc of the front edging, in order to have the right multiple of stitches for the bottom edging. The XL is the only one that does not need extra stitches.
Row 2: Ch 2 (does not count), Dc in same st and in ea (192, 204, 216, 216, 228, 252 dc)
*Remember, from here on out, only the stitches that are working in will be mentioned. Stitches not mentioned are skipped.
Row 3: ch 6 (counts as sc, ch 5), sk 3, sc in 4th, *ch 5, sk 3, sc* repeat (48, 51, 54, 54, 57, 63 ch 5 sp)
Row 4: sl st to center of first ch 5, ch 3 (counts as dc) dc, ch 2, dc 2 in same ch sp, ch 2, *dc 7 in next ch 5 sp, ch 2, sc in next ch 5 sp, ch 5, sc in next ch sp, ch 2* repeat until the last 2 ch 5 sp, dc 7 in next ch 5 sp, ch 2, dc 2, ch 2, dc 2 in last ch sp. (16, 17, 18, 18, 19, 21 dc 7 fans)
Row 5: sl st in first two dc and in first ch 2 sp. (ch 3, dc, ch 2, dc 2) in ch 2 sp, ch 2, *dc in next 3 dc, [dc, ch 3, dc] in next dc, dc in next 3 dc, ch 2, sc in next ch 5 sp, ch 2* repeat across, [dc 2, ch 2, dc 2] in last ch sp (16,17, 18, 18, 19, 21 ch 3 sp)
Row 6: sl st in first 2 dc and in first ch 2 sp, [ch 3, dc, ch 2, dc 2] in same ch 2 sp, ch 1, sk 2 dc, *dc4tog across next 4 dc, ch 5, dc4tog in ch 3 sp, ch 5, dc4tog across next 4 dc, ch 1* repeat across, [dc 2, ch 2, dc 2] in last ch sp (32, 34, 36, 36, 38, 42 ch 5 sp)
Row 7: sl st in first 2 dc and in first ch 2 sp [ch 3, dc, ch 2, dc 2] in same ch sp, ch 5, *sc in next ch 5 sp, ch 5* repeat across, [dc 2, ch 2, dc 2] in last ch 2 sp. (48, 51, 54, 54, 57, 63 ch 5 sp)
Row 8: sl st in first 2 dc and in first ch 2 sp [ch 3, dc, ch 2, dc 2] in same ch sp, ch 2, sc in next ch 5 sp, ch 2, *dc 7 in next ch 5 sp, ch 2, sc in next ch 5 sp, ch 5, sc in next ch sp, ch 2* repeat until the last 2 ch 5 sp, dc 7 in next ch 5 sp, ch 2, dc 2, ch 2, dc 2 in last ch sp. (16, 17, 18, 18, 19, 21 dc 7 fans)
Rows 9-10: Repeat Rows 5-6
Note: if you want your kimono longer (I’m pretty short, so 10 rows was knee length for me), you can repeat rows 7-10 until you reach your desired length.
Row 11: sl st in first 2 dc and in ch 2 sp, [ch 3, dc, ch 2, dc 2] in same ch 2 sp, ch 2, sk to next ch sp, sc 6 in ch 5 sp, picot, sc 6 in next ch 5 sp, *sc in ch sp, sc 6 in next ch 5 sp, picot, sc 6 in next ch 5 sp* repeat across, ch 2, [dc 2, ch 2, dc 2] in last ch 2 sp. Fasten off, weave in ends.
The Finishing Touches!
The moss stitch that makes up the body has lots of room to be stretched out. You can, of course, block each panel individually or block the finished product based on your preference.
1. Wet the garment thoroughly.
2. On thick towel, blocking board, or preferred blocking surface, stretch out the garment to your desired proportions and pin into place. I stretched mine to be roughly 40” long (including edging).
3. Let the garment dry in this shape—usually 24 hours.
4. Unpin, wear, enjoy!
Seriously, this is such an easy garment to style! I’ve worn it to church over a simple white dress or with my favorite pair of jeans, t-shirt, with a pair of pink canvas shoes! Share a pic of how you styled yours and tag me on Instagram!
Don’t forget to share on Pinterest!
The Barcis Kimono is written by Rebekah Haas. I hold the copyright to this pattern. It should not be published, shared, or sold without direct permission of the designer. You are, of course, welcome to sell any items you make using this pattern. If you post pictures of your item on Instagram or Facebook, please credit me with the design by linking to my Instagram account or website. Thank you for choosing to make my pattern! I hope it inspires you!