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Barcis Kimono - Child Sizes: Free Crochet Pattern

Barcis Kimono - Child Sizes: Free Crochet Pattern

The moment I learned my firstborn would be a daughter, I started planning our coordinating outfits! For the first year - ok, maybe two years - we were photo ready every time we left the house! Of course, fast forward five years and two sons, my daughter and I rarely coordinate or “twin”, as my daughter likes to call it.

After completing the Barcis Kimono for myself, I had enough yarn left over for another project! With Easter on the horizon, I thought it was high time I made something for both of us!

I can still see her face the first time she tried it on - alight with joy! She pranced, preened, and danced around the living room -the unwoven ends flying about her like little fairies of happiness! We were “twinsies”!

Purchase the downloadable and printable version of the Barcis Bambina here, and the adult sizes here.

Or, keep reading for the full, free pattern!

If you like it, pin it!

Free Crochet Kimono Pattern for sizes 2t-14

Free Crochet Kimono Pattern for sizes 2t-14

The child version of the Barcis Kimono is slightly different from the original adult version. The child version is designed to be a little shorter, with only one repeat of the lace edging instead of two repeats. I don’t know about your girl, but mine loves to play outside and explore! A long kimono would be in the way of cartwheels, swinging, and romps!


Since this crochet kimono is child sized, it works up super quickly! I made this size small in two evening! The kimono consists of three panels worked in the moss stitch and seamed with a slip stitch or your preferred seaming method. A ribbed border formed from front post and back post stitches lines the front and neck. A detailed lace edging along the bottom brings the drama to this otherwise simple pattern!

Want a sneak peek at my latest designs? Check out my Instagram! You will see it there first!

Crochet Kimono kids sizes 2t-14

Crochet Kimono kids sizes 2t-14


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Materials:

DK/3 weight yarn

I used ND Yarn Company yarns in Soft Petals for Color A and Poseidon for Color B

Color A: xs –300 yds; s—340 yds; m—380 yds; l—460yds

Color B: xs—150 yds; s—200 yds; m—250 yds; l—250 yds

Hook H/5mm

Stitch Marker - learn how to make your own here!

Yarn Needle


*Yarn substitutions: Yarn Bee Must be Merino, Lion Brand Ice Cream or Comfy Cotton Blend, or other 3 weight wool/acrylic yarn.



Stitches and Terms:

Ch—chain

Sk—skip

Ea—each

St—stitch

Sl St—slip stitch

Sc—single crochet

Dc— double crochet

Dc4tog—double crochet four together

Fphdc—front post half double crochet

Bphdc—back post half double crochet

RSC—reverse single crochet

Picot—ch 3, sc in 3rd ch from hook

 


Notes:

Sizes are written in ascending order: xs, s, m, l.

Sizes are xs (2-3 yrs), s (4-6), m (8-10), and l (12-14)

Stitches not worked in are not mentioned in the bottom edging. If the stitch is not mentioned, just skip it and work in the mentioned stitches.

The bottom edging is inspired by this shawl pattern by Kristin Omdahl. She includes a written chart you may find helpful.

This kimono is not designed to close in the front, but to be worn open—so it will gap in the front.

If you struggle to get gauge, try blocking! The moss stitch used in this pattern has a tendency to close up on itself while worked, but opens up beautifully with blocking or wearing.

Finished measurements for the panels are as follows: xs back: 12”x15”, xs front 4”x15”; s back: 14”x16”, s front: 5”x16”; m back: 16”x17”, m front: 6”x17”; l back: 18”x18”, l front: 7”x18”

 

Crochet Kids Kimono sizes 2t-14

Crochet Kids Kimono sizes 2t-14

 Gauge:

To ensure proper sizing, take a moment to check gauge! If you are using a lighter weight 3 yarn - like Lion Brand Mandala - you may find you need to go up a hook size to make sure the final object comes out the right size.

Ch20, sc in 3rd ch from hook, *ch 1, sk 1, sc* repeat across - this is the moss stitch. For the second row, ch 3 (counts as sc, ch1), sc in ch 1 sp, * ch 1, sc in ch 1 sp * repeat across.

16 rows x 16 st (8 sc, 8 ch 1) = 4”


Pattern:


Back:

Color A

Ch 52, 60, 68, 76

Row 1: Sc in 4h ch from hook, *ch1, sk 1, sc* repeat across (25, 29, 33, 37 sc)

Row 2: Ch 3, turn, sc in first ch 1 space *ch 1, sk 1, sc in ch 1 sp* repeat across

Repeat row 2 for 60, 64, 68, 72 rows

Fasten off, weave in ends.

 

Sides:

Color A, Make 2

Ch 20, 24, 28, 32

Row 1: Sc in 4h ch from hook, *ch1, sk 1, sc* repeat across (9, 11, 13, 15  sc)

Row 2: Ch 3, turn, sc in first ch 1 space *ch 1, sk 1, sc in ch 1 sp* repeat across

Repeat row 2 for 60, 64, 68, 72 rows

Fasten off, leave a long tail to use for seaming the sides to the back.

 


Joining the Shoulders: (Color A)

With right sides facing each other (but let’s be honest, both sides are the same), join the shoulders starting on the outside and working toward the neck. My favorite method is to simply slip stitch through both pieces. This creates a seam much like a serger would on a knit garment. This type of seam has a small ridge on the inside, but it also has lots of give and movement while being very secure.  After seaming the shoulders, fasten off and weave in ends.

 

Joining the Sides: (Color A)

Step 1: From the shoulder, measure down 5”, 5.5”, 6.5”, 7.5” and mark the stitch at the bottom of the measurement. Count down from the shoulder the number of rows you marked off—in the small, I marked 17 rows. I counted down 17 rows on the back panel and placed the marker through the 17th row of both sides.  Pull up a loop in the eighteenth row (or whichever row comes after the one you marked) and slip stitch through both panels down the side. Fasten off, weave in ends.

 

Step 2: On the other side, simply count down the number of rows you measured in step 1, making sure you count the same number of rows on the back panel as the front. Place the stitch marker through the same row on both panels. Pull up a loop in the next row, slip stitch through both panels until you reach the bottom. Fasten off, weave in ends.

Sleeves: (Color A)

Round 1: Insert hook in the armpit area and pull up a loop. Sc in ea st around. Join with sl st to first sc. Since I left open 17 stitches on the front and back panels, I ended this round with 34 sc. Your final count will vary depending on how big you left the arm opening.

Round 2: ch 1, reverse sc around. Join with sl st to first st. Fasten off, weave in ends.  Repeat rounds 1-2 on the other side.

 

Free Crochet Kimono Pattern for Kids 2t-14

Free Crochet Kimono Pattern for Kids 2t-14

 Front Edging: (Color B)

Row 1: Pull up a loop in the bottom corner of the front right panel. Sc 136, 144, 152, 160 working up the center of the kimono, around the back neckline, and down the other side. Do not work along the bottom hem of the kimono. 

 

You may need to add a stitch here or there to get the right number of sc. The best place to add or subtract a sc is at the shoulder seams.

 

Row 2: Ch 2 (Does not count as first fphdc), *fphdc in next 2 st, bphdc in next 2 st* repeat around. (68, 72, 76, 80 fphdc)

 

Row 3: Ch 2, *fphdc 2, bphdc 2* repeat around, hdc in ch 2 sp of row 2 (this provides an even place to put the bottom edging)

 

Row 4: Ch 1, reverse sc in ea st, including ch 2 sp at the beginning of Row 3. Do not fasten off, you will carry this yarn to the bottom edging.

Adult sizes of the Barcis Kimono are also available!

Adult sizes of the Barcis Kimono are also available!

 Bottom Edging: (In Color B)

 

Row 1: Turn garment so you are working on the bottom hem. Sl st in the side of the hdc of Row 4 of the Front Edging. Ch 1, sc in same spot. Sc 84, 108, 120, 132 across the bottom of the three panels. (84, 108, 120, 132 sc)

 

*You will need to squeeze a few extra stitches in (1, 9, 5, 1), I suggest on at each seam and in the hdc of the front edging, in order to have the right multiple of stitches for the bottom edging. The extra stitches are listed in the parenthesis.

 

Row 2: Ch 2 (does not count), Dc in same st and in ea (84, 108, 120, 132 dc)

 

Row 3: ch 6 (counts as sc, ch 5), sk 3, sc in 4th, *ch 5, sk 3, sc* repeat (21, 27, 30, 33 ch 5 sp)

 

Row 4: sl st to center of first ch 5, ch 3 (counts as dc) dc, ch 2, dc 2 in same ch sp, ch 2, *dc 7 in next ch 5 sp, ch 2, sc in next ch 5 sp, ch 5, sc in next ch  sp, ch 2* repeat until the last 2 ch 5 sp, dc 7 in next ch 5 sp, ch 2, dc 2, ch 2, dc 2 in last ch sp. (7, 9, 10, 11 dc 7 fans)

 

Row 5: sl st in first two dc and in first ch 2 sp. (ch 3, dc, ch 2, dc 2) in ch 2 sp, ch 2, *dc in next 3 dc, [dc, ch 3, dc] in next dc, dc in next 3 dc, ch 2, sc in next ch 5 sp, ch 2* repeat across, [dc 2, ch 2, dc 2] in last ch sp (7, 9, 10, 11 ch 3 sp)


 Row 6: sl st in first  2 dc and in first ch 2 sp, [ch 3, dc, ch 2, dc 2] in same ch 2 sp, ch 1, sk 2 dc, *dc4tog across next 4 dc, ch 5, dc4tog in ch 3 sp, ch 5, dc4tog across next 4 dc, ch 1* repeat across, [dc 2, ch 2, dc 2] in last ch sp (14, 18, 20, 22 ch 5 sp)

 

Row 7: sl st in first 2 dc and in ch 2 sp, [ch 3, dc, ch 2, dc 2] in same ch 2 sp, ch 2, sc 6 in ch 5 sp, picot, sc 6 in next ch 5 sp, *sc in ch sp, sc 6 in next ch 5 sp, picot, sc 6 in next ch 5 sp* repeat across, ch 2, [dc 2, ch 2, dc 2] in last ch 2 sp. Fasten off, weave in ends.

The lace edging brings the drama to this otherwise simple crochet kimono pattern.

The lace edging brings the drama to this otherwise simple crochet kimono pattern.

 Blocking:

The moss stitch that makes up the body has lots of room to be stretched out. You can, of course, block each panel individually or block the finished product based on your preference.

 

1. Wet the garment thoroughly.

2. On thick towel, blocking board, or preferred blocking surface, stretch out the garment to your desired proportions and pin into place.

3. Let the garment dry in this shape—usually 24 hours.

4. Unpin, wear, enjoy!

Mommy and Me crochet kimono patterns!

Mommy and Me crochet kimono patterns!

 The Barcis Bambina Kimono is written by Rebekah Haas. I hold the copyright to this pattern. It should not be published, shared, or sold without direct permission of the designer. You are, of course, welcome to sell any items you make using this pattern. If you post pictures of your item on Instagram or Facebook, please credit me with the design by linking to my Instagram account or website. Thank you for choosing to make my pattern! I hope it inspires you!

 

This pattern has been tested for accuracy. If you have trouble with it, or notice an error, you can ask about it on my Facebook page. I strive to provide clear and easy to follow patterns!

Barcis Kimono: Free Pattern

Barcis Kimono: Free Pattern